Shaping Skincare’s Next Chapter

Droopy skin caused by collagen loss. Wrinkles and fine lines from dryness and facial expressions. Dark spots peppering the delicate eye area from sun exposure. Cosmetic chemists are looking to novel ingredients to address these unwanted issues in their latest formulations.

One of the biggest buzzwords in skincare is PDRN (polydeoxyribonucleotide), a biological compound extracted from salmon or trout DNA. PDRN is popular in K-beauty skincare and touted for tissue repair, collagen production and inflammation reduction via cellular adenosine receptor activation. PDRN topped Spate’s latest ingredients trends report, which the beauty trend tracker released in April with the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists.

This past summer, The Ordinary released its newest innovation, Lacto-PDRN 4% + B9 Eye Cream. Lacto-PDRN is produced via fermentation utilizing Lactobacillus rhamnosus. Inspired by the science of PDRN, it helps support the skin’s natural renewal processes for healthier-looking skin while improving the appearance of firmness, elasticity and wrinkles around the eye area.

The Ordinary’s use of vitamin B9 (folic acid) supports skin hydration while improving the appearance of smoothness and elasticity. The incorporation of a polysaccharide-based firm-forming technology that creates a lightweight, flexible network on the skin delivers an instant firming effect, according to the brand.

Younger adults can also benefit from it as a preventative step in their beauty routine to preserve healthy skin, according to The Ordinary.

“Whether you’re in your 20s looking to support healthy-looking skin, or in your 30s, 40s and beyond looking to address visible concerns like fine lines, crow’s feet, loss of firmness or dullness, the formula is designed to target key signs of aging around the eye, as well as provide immediate visible benefits and improvements over time,” said Silvia Stanica, senior manager, science communications, The Ordinary.

Under eye aging isn’t necessarily expedited by one specific lifestyle factor like stress, sun exposure and nicotine and alcohol use. Rather, it comes from a combination of intrinsic and extrinsic factors.

“The skin around the eyes is naturally thinner and contains fewer oil glands than the rest of the face, making it more susceptible to visible changes over time,” added Stanica.

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Calling on Collagen

Another new skincare product targeting the delicate eye area comes from Parëva Beauty. Its GFP12 Collagen Eye Serum is said to interrupt the “cascade” of collagen loss that results from a weakening barrier function and the gradual decline of fat support beneath the skin from biological changes.

“Ninety percent of our loyal customers asked us to create an eye product,” said Smitha Rao, scientist and CEO of Parëva Beauty. “So, we developed a formula that goes beyond temporary blurring to address two key drivers of eye aging: collagen breakdown and age-related fat and lipid loss.”

Part of this was owed to genetics and lifestyle factors.

“Genetics definitely plays a part in how peri-orbital aging occurs, like the appearance of wrinkles, the timing of eyelid sagging, fat distribution and orbital shape. However, genetics does not act alone,” she added. “Lifestyle factors like UV exposure, smoking, pollution, hormonal changes, GLP-1—all contribute to aging the eye area.”

GFP12 Collagen Eye Serum works to visibly smooth wrinkles, hydrate skin and brighten the eye area. Its lightweight serum allows for the delivery of 12 bioactives and Molecur 3, a patent-pending proprietary longevity technology that banishes fine lines and wrinkles. Supported by independent third-party clinical testing supervised by a board-certified dermatologist, the serum delivers a faster, safer and measurably superior skin performance, establishing a new benchmark for biotechnology-driven skincare and longevity, Rao said.

Specifically, Molecur 3 utilizes exclusive biotechnology that harnesses the power of plant stem cells from Switzerland, directly influencing exosomes and NAD+ and mitigating UV-induced damage. The serum is also formulated with six peptides and collagen fragments, growth factor delivery system, ceramides, multi-weight hyaluronic acids and botanicals.

Like PDRN, collagen is another top skin care ingredient according to Spate’s April analysis.

Dr. Dennis Gross recently discovered a more effective way to use the structural protein to optimize beauty benefits in skincare. The brand’s new DRx BioRejuvenation Serum was the result of five years of R&D, according to officials.

Touted as the first topical treatment in the brand’s DRx franchise, it delivers collagen amino acids in the exact ratios naturally found in skin alongside glutathione, niacinamide and adenosine (most commonly referred to as GNA, which works to support the skin’s natural energy cycle to promote long-term rejuvenation) to help support collagen production and visibly improve firmness, elasticity and definition, says the brand. Designed to target problem areas for sagging such as the jawline, neck, nasolabial folds (smile lines) and jowls, the serum leaves skin looking sculpted and lifted with continued use, according to the company.

“For more than five years, I focused on a simple question: What’s the most effective way to support collagen in the skin?” Dr. Dennis Gross told Happi. “We know that applying collagen directly doesn’t work because the molecule is too large to penetrate the skin. Taking collagen orally is different, but it also gets broken down during digestion. I wanted to approach the problem differently by delivering the amino acids that make up collagen in the precise ratios naturally found in the skin. By studying the skin at the molecular level, I identified the building blocks it actually needs to support its natural rejuvenation process. That’s where the name BioRejuvenation comes from. The formula works with the skin’s own biology to improve firmness, elasticity, and overall skin health over time.”

In a 12-week consumer perception study, 90% said their skin feels firmer, tighter, and revitalized; 88% said the serum is an effective at-home solution for facial rejuvenation; and 96% said their skin looks rejuvenated, according to the brand.

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New Serums and Essences

Dr. Muneeb Shah’s Remedy line recently expanded with Multi-Depth Moisture Advanced Hydrating Serum.

Formulated around the idea of “a new way to hydrate,” this dermatologist-created formula purports to go beyond traditional hydrating serums by delivering hydration that reaches “deeper, lasts longer and supports healthier-looking skin over time,” according to the company.

In lieu of depending on a sole humectant, Multi-Depth Moisture Advanced Hydrating Serum mixes multiple molecular-weight hydrators hyaluronic acid, polyglutamic acid, glycerin and saccharide isomerate to lock in moisture. Barrier-supporting ingredients like peptides deliver visible radiance and improve firmness while centella asiatica, ectoin, beta-glucan and lactobacillus ferment to support the skin barrier.

Estée Lauder has added Advanced Night Repair Recovery Treatment Essence to its popular Advanced Night Repair franchise. Using bio-exosome technology, Advanced Night Repair Recovery Treatment Essence is a “rapidly penetrating fluid” that delivers the same six core skin benefits associated with professional treatments, according to the company. In just one use, skin’s resilience is boosted by 19%, according to the brand. Over time, red post-acne marks were reduced, with continued improvements in texture, elasticity, smoothness, and firmness. Lauder contends it can amplify the benefits Advanced Night Repair Serum when used together.

SkinCeuticals recently updated its C E Ferulic serum, building upon the brand’s signature antioxidant foundation of 15% pure vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid); 1% vitamin E; and 0.5% ferulic acid. The brand contends this synergistic combination helps neutralize free radicals, defend against environmental damage, support collagen synthesis and visibly improve signs of aging.

The original C E Ferulic patent expired in 2025. The updated formula now includes 0.3% carnosine to stimulate the skin’s internal antioxidants and to help protect cellular proteostasis and 1% endophytol, a biotech-derived dandelion root extract that shields the skin from pollution-induced oxidative stress and chronic micro-inflammation, mitigating inflammaging. These ingredients are said to work across the three dimensions of skin longevity structural, signaling and metabolic—to help preserve skin function, strengthen resilience, and extend the visible benefits of youthful-looking skin over time, according to the brand.

“For more than 20 years, C E Ferulic has set the gold standard in topical antioxidant protection,” Stephen Lynch, head of skincare scientific valorization for research and innovation North America at L’Oréal, told Happi. “With this next evolution, we’re building on that legacy by expanding its ability to support skin longevity. We believe the future of skincare is about helping skin remain healthier and more resilient over time—not simply correcting existing signs of aging. This reformulation reflects that philosophy, bringing together decades of antioxidant expertise with new longevity-focused science to help support skin’s long-term vitality.”

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Designed for Recovery

With the final stretches of summer, consumers may be satisfied with getting some color but frowning at the dark spots from the sun’s unforgiving rays. To minimize the appearance of dark spots, Gundry MD released Polyphenol Dark Spot Diminisher. The serum was formulated around polyphenol-rich botanical extracts and advanced brightening compounds. The brand says the formula features a “curated selection” of antioxidant-dense botanical extracts paired with brightening technology.

Regarding skin imperfections, Relab is offering new hope for the roughly 125 million people worldwide affected by psoriasis with its new Rescue + Restore System. Backed by biotechnology, the system uses effector proteins as a new class of skincare actives. The product trio includes a barrier rescue face cream, Active Rescue Psoriasis Cream and Barrier Restore Body Cream to target the various points in the flare cycle, according to the brand.

“Effector proteins are highly specialized proteins studied for the ways they interact with biological systems,” said Eric Cowles, CEO. “They are the overarching category of novel actives we’re introducing to the skincare industry. Our first, patent-pending effector protein filtrate features YopM, a specific bacterial protein which helps modulate the same underlying cellular signals associated with a psoriasis flare. However, it does not eliminate psoriasis. Our technology is designed to help manage symptoms and support more clear, comfortable, healthier-looking skin.” 

An in-home consumer-user study demonstrated positive results across both conditions; 100% of participants reported an improvement in the overall appearance of their skin and 91% reported that their skin felt less itchy and scaly.

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Supply Side

The portfolio of active ingredients available from leading suppliers continues to expand. Today’s skincare marketers have access to new advanced technologies that can yield innovative solutions.

Coast Southwest’s Bellativa PEP line offers biomimetic peptides that address a variety of anti-aging concerns. Personal care brands can customize formulations with their own peptide cocktail.  

The newest addition, Bellativa SynPEP Oil, is an oil-soluble peptide delivered within an epigenetic botanical vehicle that harnesses biomolecules from the Spanish olive tree which include omegas 9, 6, 3, vitamin E, maslinic acid, hydroxytyrosol and oleanolic acid. The targeted action of acetyl tetrapeptide-11 stimulates keratinocyte proliferation and boosts the synthesis of syndecan-1, a key protein that maintains the structural integrity and cohesion of the epidermis.

“Rather than delivering the peptide in a conventional carrier, it is suspended within a highly active lipid matrix that serves as more than a delivery vehicle. It actively supports the skin’s biological environment,” said Traci L. Cassell, VP, anti-aging, Coast Southwest. “This approach combines a nature-inspired story with science-backed efficacy to reinforce skin architecture for a visibly firmer, smoother and healthier complexion.”

Coast Southwest also offers ingredients like i-Derma Phase Eyebagless, which consists of a patented hydrogel technology that encapsulates active ingredients and delivers them in a controlled manner for long-lasting performance. Dipeptide-2, caffeine and glutathione are infused in a biodegradable polymer to hydrate, firm and brighten the under-eye area while reducing puffiness and dark circles. 

“Hydrogel formats are gaining momentum across skincare, driven by consumer demand for water-rich treatments that pair efficacious ingredients with an elevated sensorial experience,” said Dominique G. Polanco, technical marketing specialist, anti-aging, Coast Southwest.

Ashland’s Stabileze S polymer is a proprietary starch-based rheology modifier that delivers strong thickening, suspension and emulsion stabilization across a broad viscosity range. Its controlled activation process creates a stable 3D network for high performance and effortless formulation. It outperforms combinations of nature derived and acrylate-based polymers while providing soft, powdery, non-pilling aesthetics that elevate sensory performance and consumer delight across a wide variety of applications.

According to an Ashland spokesperson, Stabileze S polymer “brings powerful performance, sensorial and versatility” which drives “simpler, more efficient, and sensory-enhanced formulations in a non-microplastic, non-persistent chemistry.” The enhanced sensory experience with Stabileze S polymer aligns strongly with the texture as an efficacy cue providing a soft, powdery after feel, connoting nourished and cared for skin, according to Ashland. Stabileze S’s versatility and clean INCI name allow it to fit with the minimalist trends for ingredient lists we’ve been seeing as well.

In addition, Ashland’s vital et sp biofunctional is an optimized vitamin E derivative complex that activates the skin’s calming power. Inspired by biomimetic skincare and the slow cosmetics movement, it delivers the biologically active form of α-tocopherol in a water-soluble format with proven skin delivery, according to the company. Its unique 360° soothing benefits empower the skin to self-rescue against multiple stressors such as UV stress, mechanical stress (shaving) and bacterial stress.

For more novel ingredients from industry suppliers, see the online version of this story on Happi.com.

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The 411 on Hypochlorous Acid

Hypochlorous acid is another ingredient to watch.

Indie brand QIQ (pronounced “kick”) uses proprietary HypoBiome Technology in its line of high-purity hypochlorous acid offerings that span from cleansing sprays to itch relief sprays.

“At the heart of our products is a breakthrough a decade in the making: HypoBiome Technology,” QIQ Founder Jody Nicholas told Happi. “This high-purity, hypochlorous formula is naturally created by our own white blood cells to fight pathogens inside our bodies.”

The HypoBiome Technology is formulated via a patent-pending manufacturing process that the brand says results in “unparalleled purity,” a two-plus-year stability period and pharmaceutical-grade safety credentials. Dermatologist-and clinically tested, QIQ’s hypoallergenic formula features a skin-neutral pH, delivering “superior” cleansing, calming and rapid skin recovery without causing irritation.

QIQ’s Itch Relief Spray was inspired by keeping the skin microbiome intact.

“We were inspired by biomimetics or biomimicry, in which human-made innovation, processes, or systems are made by mimicking nature,” explained Nicholas. “Hypochlorous is produced and utilized by our body’s immune system to defend against a broad spectrum of invasive pathogens. Our proprietary High Purity Hypochlorous formula mimics our body’s natural production of hypochlorous within our white blood cells to cleanse, calm and care for the skin.”

Other hypochlorous acid products are also making their way into major retail outlets.

In August, Skinfix expanded into Ulta with its Relief+ Hypochlorous Daily Mist. Formulated with 0.02% hypochlorous acid to reduce inflammation, it is reportedly equipped with a “first-to-market” airless misting tube to protect potency.

Also bottling the benefits of hypochlorous acid is Magic Molecule. The indie brand’s Daily Skin Spray is said to treat 50 common skin concerns. It recently expanded distribution into Walmart stores nationwide and online.

“Innovation only matters if people can access it,” said Justin Kerzner, co-founder and CEO of Magic Science Corporation. “Walmart has long been the destination where millions of families turn to trusted products at an exceptional value, making this a meaningful milestone not only for Magic Molecule, but also for the growing hypochlorous acid category.”